These work well, but have the drawback of requiring the pilot hole to be drilled to a precise size. A further form is a parallel fluted extractor, with no taper at all and thus no wedging. Straight fluted extractors have less wedging effect than tapered screw extractors, so have less tendency to lock the screws into place. The nuts can then be turned with a wrench to remove the screw. The appropriate special nut is then attached to the end of the extractor. The extractor is then hammered into the hole with a brass hammer, because a steel hammer is more likely to cause the extractor to break. The screw is drilled out with the appropriate drill and drill bushing. Straight fluted extractors may come in a kit that also has associated drills, drill bushings, and special nuts, or be sold individually. This wedging action can lock the screw even more tightly in place, making it difficult or impossible to extract. A drawback to tapered screw extractors is that their wedge action tends to expand the drilled, and thus weakened, screw. As the extractor is turned, the flutes on the tool dig into the screw, causing it to lock tightly and withstand the applied torque required to remove the screw. The extractor is then inserted into this hole and turned in the direction opposing the stuck screw's original one, usually using a tap wrench. The screw is first drilled out to the proper diameter for that extractor. They are generally left-handed, for use on right-handed threads, though there are right-handed extractors for removing left-handed screws. Types Spiral flute screw extractorsĪ spiral screw extractor is itself a coarse-pitched tapered screw thread. Screw extractors are intentionally made of hard, brittle steel, and, if too much torque is applied, can break off inside the screw that is being removed. There are two types: one has a spiral flute structure, commonly called an easy out after the trademarked name EZ-Out the other has a straight flute structure.
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